Knob and tube wiring consists of two parallel wires without a ground wire, typically coated with rubber and a single cloth braid. The black wire is hot, and the white wire is neutral, but due to age, it can be difficult to identify which is which.

Old knob and tube wiring does not necessarily need replacement if the insulation is intact and no ground connection is required for the receptacles it serves. However, inspect for any bare wires or damaged insulation, which can be caused by age, overheating, or over-fusing. Bare spots indicate the need for rewiring.

Knob and tube wiring was designed for open-air heat dispersion and should not be covered with insulation. Modern insulation methods, especially blown-in insulation, can trap heat and cause issues.

Grounding is another concern for areas like kitchens and bathrooms where there’s water sources.

The perfect extension cord has the right gauge, jacket, and length for your specific use. We recommend spending extra on cords that are lighted, have clear ends, and multiple female outlets. A lighted female end lets you verify power is running through the entire cord. Multiple outlets save time when using several devices. Never use extension cords near water or outdoors without a portable GFCI, which can protect you from electrical shock.

Not all electrical panels are created equal. Some installers choose the cheapest option assuming all panels are the same, but there are good and bad designs. For advice on the right panel size and quality for your needs, contact us for expert guidance.

The neutral is connected to earth ground at two locations, 1.) The utility transformer that supplies you with electrical power, 2.) at the panel. It conducts the return current that passes through the load (ie: light bulb, iphone charger that’s plugged in, modem/router that’s plugged in) and the rest of the electrical circuit. There’s a misconception that it’s not as dangerous as the hot wires that are typically colour coded black and red. But, if you think about it, if it’s returning a current path back to ground from the hot conductors than you can just as easily get shocked off the neutral than you can off of the hot wires, so that’s why the neutral wire is so important. When an electrician comes to troubleshoot your house and they say, ” You’ve lost a neutral”. What they’re saying is, a neutral connection somewhere between the electrical panel and the receptacle, switch and/or light has loosened up and stopped maintaining contact with the neutral that comes from the panel.

A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) montors the electrical current difference between hot and neutral wires and quickly cuts power if th eimblance occurs, protecting the users from electric shock. GFCIs are required by the Canadian Electric Code in wet or damp areas like bathrooms, kitches, outdoor receptacles, and hot tubs.

There are two types: GFCI receptacles and GFCI breakers. For protecting a single outlet or a group of connected outlets (e.g., multiple exterior receptacles), a GFCI receptacle is usually more economical and practical. GFCI breakers protect an entire circuit.

Note: The length of the cord plugged into a GFCI affects how quickly it trips in case of a fault; shorter cords trip faster than longer extension cords.

The terminology that is used to describe them, they all pretty much mean the same thing for the same application.

However, can lights were an older style that had a full box and can above the ceiling where as nowadays you can get an array of low profile lights that don’t need a large clunky rough-in housing. So, they’re all interchangeable when it comes down to the final product.